In Pictures: Xalapa, Veracruz

Xalapa, or Jalapa, is a city of several hundred thousand and the seat of government of the State of Veracruz.  At 4000′ above sea level, Xalapa doesn’t have the obscene heat of many cities along the Gulf of Mexico, but it still has a green, lush feel and a photogenic hillside setting.  Xalapan culture runs strong, with several universities, a definitive regional cuisine, and popular venues for live, local music.  

This is the first of two posts pictures of Xalapa… these happen to be taken from the zocalo, or adjacent buildings.

 

México, D.F.

This bus SUX

Public transport in Xalapa (or Jalapa?) Mexico, is branded “SUX,” which stands for the local bus-drivers union, or the Sociedad Cooperativa de Camioneros del Servicio Urbano de Xalapa, Veracruz.

Would you ride in this bus?

Some things just don’t translate well.

 

México, D.F.

Full time Job

If anyone’s looking for a full-time job in Jalapa:

Solicitation: // Youths 16-21 years old to // cut material in // a workshop located in the city center and // 4 young guys to deliver it. // Offering $600 pesos (~$50 USD) weekly. Work // is full-time.

One one hand, seeing this job posting for $50/week reminded me how little many jobs in Mexico can pay, especially if they are unskilled.  In its defense, the cost of living outside of Mexico City, even in cities with modern infrastructure such as Jalapa, are quite low.  On the other hand, Mexico has more millionaires than Germany… there’s wealth here, it’s just highly concentrated.  But I’ll leave the commentary on how that hurts development to the economists.

 

 

México, D.F.

Taco Count Update: 962

As the total taco count passed 950 over the weekend, it occurred to me that, perhaps, the final climb should be documented by mikesnotes. After all, a thousand tacos (and 0 heart attacks) is not just an every day occurrence.

I double-checked the math and figure that in the 8 months up through yesterday, the total taco count stood at 956. Lunch today was another 6:

• 4 tacos from the taco de canasta vendor at ITAM, sold from the back of a bicycle. Carried in a basket (or canasta), these pre-made, tortilla-wrapped grease delivery vehicles rock because they’re tiny and cheap (3.50 per), yet taste awesome. The ones I got were filled with mashed potatoes. Add to that some grilled onions that are hidden below (you have to know to ask!) and this might be what they’d serve at a Mexican-Polish restaurant.
• 2 tacos from Jovitacos, the ITAM institution. There’s something to be said for thinly-sliced grilled steak and onions, wrapped in a shell of crispy grilled cheese, with spectacular salsas. I’m still looking for new tacos to try, but the odds look good that these will be some of the best tacos I’ve had. We’ll have to wait to find out.

So the count now stands at 962.

 

México, D.F.

A Call for Mexico City Taco Recommendations

It is with sad hesitation that I must report: unless time comes to a sudden and spectacular halt, mikesnotes has a mere 46 days to go.  That means, of course, that it’s time to start posting all of the pictures that I haven’t gotten around to posting….

And it also means that my time in taco heaven is about to end.  In 8 months, I’ve scoured the internet, newspapers, and local magazines for suggested taquerías and asked everyone I can find for their recommendations.  I’ve walked the city north to south (yikes!) and tried every stall, restaurant, and street-side grill that offers meat in a tortilla.  Heck, I’ve even tried making my own.  

But, in a city with 27 million people and, it seems, an equal number of taquerías, there is no chance that I could really try them all.  I would appreciate your suggestions.  If it’s a hole in the wall or the second-coming of El Califa, mikesnotes would be ever-so-appreciative if you would leave a comment, here or on any one of the other taco-related posts.  I’ll give it a try.

 

Oh, and at some point in the next month, I’ll be posting my own list of recommendations.

The count so far?  951.

 

México, D.F.

12-cent tacos

Mexico specializes in many things, but nothing may be better than then promotion, especially when it comes to cheap eats.  These tacos in Jalapa work out to a nearly-infinitesimal 1.5 pesos each… about 12 cents.  Oh my!  (They were so-so.)

10 tacos al pastor for the grand price of 15 pesos... less than a buck-twenty.

The record for cheapest taco (that I’ve seen) is 1 peso, albeit for a pre-made taco de canasta at La Merced, here in the D.F.

 

México, D.F.

Lucha Libre in Mexico City

It turns out there are two places to see lucha libre in Mexico City: Arena Mexico, which was blogged about here, and Arena Coliseo.  Arena Coliseo, it turns out, seems to be a much better venue for las luchas that Arena Mexico; it’s smaller and places you a bit more on top of the “action,” and is cheaper, too, with the “best” seats going for about $10/140MXN.  Now, of course, it’s lucha libre, so it’s silly, over-the-top on the melodrama, and impossible to follow, but for the price, it makes an interesting excursion for visitors.  Plus, the beers are cheap.

Matches are usually held Tuesdays at 7:30pm, Fridays at 8:30pm, and Sundays at 5pm (and as they’re on TV, they last exactly two hours).  The matches vary between the two locations here, so, before going, it’s best to check it out here: http://www.cmll.com/ (en español).

 

México, D.F.

The Mexican Cola Wars

I was speaking to the owner of an abarrotes, or corner convenience store, yesterday and asked him how he chooses which products to sell.  For example, he stocks Coca-Cola (not Pepsi), Ciel water (not Bonafont), and only Indio and Sol beers (as opposed to any of the other myriad of brands).  It turns out that all of the beverage products that he stocks are distributed or owned by the same conglomerate, FEMSA, which has an exclusivity contract with the store.  In return for not stocking competing products, FEMSA pays for all of the store’s equipment (several stand-up refrigerator units, the counter and the registers, the shelves, and even the store’s awning and advertising) plus the store’s rent(!).  

Want to own a convenience store?  All you need is a few employees and to purchase your stock — not much of an investment.  Perhaps this is why there are 5 abarrotes located less than a 1/2 block from my apartment.

 

México, D.F.

Colorful Coatepec

Here’s another picture from Coatepec…

 

mikesnotes is a big fan of color.

 

Monterrey, México

The Overhead Wires of Coatepec

A feature of many Mexican cities and towns is an overabundance of overhead wires, for electricity, phone, and other services.  In a strange way, they have an attractive quality, not unlike the fog in San Francisco… would the cities feel the same without their blanket?

Here’s the view from Coatepec, which is, in many other ways, a gorgeous and quaint colonial pueblo in the state of Veracruz.

 

México, D.F.